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41. Hit / to select everything. RIGHT CLICK within the bounding box to get a "contextual menu" choose "copy/flip/attach" and now you have a 2 armed 2 legged body, woohoo! If you select it all again and choose "info" from the contextual menu you will see that it's only 452 patches, very light (I've seen single hands with that many)
42. Make a sphere: A. draw a 2 point spline beside the green Y axis B. Hit L to lathe it C. delete either the top or bottom of the new lathed object, and rotate the remaining part to reveal a circle D. delete half of the circle, make sure the to end points of the half circle are on or very near the green line. E. lathe again, VIOLA!
43. Select the sphere, hit the deform mode button (looks kind of like a cube) drag on the cp's of the box to indirectly affect the actual sphere (this is how polygon modeler's work sometimes.) If you want more or less deform box cp's you can change it under Tools->Options->Modeling. Once you've squished the sphere into basic head shape go back to modeling mode (little yellow man button). Put some cp's down, select them, and choose the lock mode button (it looks like a lock). Delete the cp's you had selected, they were just to allow you to lock the rough head shape. Locking lets you see cp's and geometry you've put down, without accidentally selecting and moving them. I use it like cheapo rotoscopes, it gives me basic proportions and stuff in 3D, so I just spline around it.
44. Draw a mouth outline in the front view. (I usually assume I'm outlining where the lip color starts.) Don't worry about symmetry, we'll be mirror flipping the face at some point, for now we just want our rings to extrude fairly evenly. Go to side view and rendered mode with wireframe (keyboard 0 (zero)) Move the mouth so it's just along the edge of our locked sphere. (If you hold 1, 2, or 3 while dragging on a selection it constricts it to move in only 1 axis). Shift from wired(7) to render with wire(0), move your camera around(t), to get this mostly right.
45. Select your mouth ring and extrude it out. If your clever you'll adjust in different views each time to make the rings stay near the rotoscoped skull (the locked sphere). See how there's more distance between some sets of rings and others? If you want things to be smooth, try and make things as gradual and even as you can (as in: make the distance between rings consistent, or at least gradually changing.) However, at this point where there are two rings close together I'm trying to make the nasolabial furrow (the smile/snarl line.)so I'm trying to get creases there. Grab the uglier half of the mouth and delete it, and the break the left over splines.
	46. You'll notice I continued part of the rings up and over the head, and I had to stick a 5 point patch on the face. Your always going to wind up with 5 pointers on the face because you always have rings (polymodeler's call them edge loops sometimes) connecting with other spline grids. 5 Pointers can sometimes cause problems, try to move them to where they'll get less movement (like way out on the cheek instead of in dimple area) and try to keep them as pentagonal as you can, but they're great and you have to use them. I've decided to go with cartoon eye balls instead of ones stuck in the head. This is way easier since you don't have to worry about eyelids and stuff, so that's why the upper part of the face is pretty much a grid.
	47. Here you can see I've just extruded the upper face around to start finishing out the head shape. I also threw on some roto eyes to size my cartoon eye's to later. (see my cartoon eye's tute (it's much shorter I promise)). When your working on a model that you want to have imbedded eyes I really recommend locking some roto eyes in there to model around. You'll need to build rings/edgeloops around the roto eyes, extrude the rings into the surface eyesocket (eyebrow ridge and cheekbone), then connect them to the other eyesocket, and mouth. If your going to do non round eyes (anime eyes maybe) use a roto eye sphere of your intended final eye shape and leave it there until you've made your blink poses and made your real eye rigged to that shape
	48. Okay, basically I've just connected the face to the back of the head, leaving a hole to stick ears. See the 5 point patches?
	49. So I copied the last neck ring from the body, and pasted it here so I can get the head on the neck right. Connect the center vertical lines. See the arrow, sometimes when you're trying to connect to a vertical spline A:M keeps trying to connect you to the horizontal instead. The easy work around is to stick a horizontal on the cp, then your vertical will attach no problem, then delete your dangling horizontal.
	50. Changed to a better angle. Connect what I can, make hooks of what I can't. The back of the head your probably not going to see a lot of, so I often make a fair amount of hooks there to cut down my patch count. You can always hide it with hair, (heck some people don't even model it since there'll be hair there.)
	51. So I hid the rest of the head but the ear area. Here's how I make ears. (1)I take my inside ring, extrude it and move it out from the head and bigger (2) I extrude just to get some depth to the ear, then extrude again and start bringing it in (3) I extrude again, usually rotate this new ring, shrink it, and pull it way inside and forward in the head. I'll often mess with the bias handles on ears since they don't move.
	52. Unhide the rest of the head (h). Hmmm. Select the whole head, copy, paste, flip x axis (right click and choose) and move to get an idea of the whole face. Just as I suspected, this guys Butt Ugly!! Never said my ear modeling style was the best, just my quick and dirty way of dealing with them. We could probably improve it with lots of tweaking.
	53. Delete the other half of the face, we still only need 1 side for now. So basically, here I am just killing the ears and making patches instead.
	54. A little better.
	55. I've narrowed the center line (XXX) and copy flip attached the face. I also threw out the roto skull, don't need it anymore. I hooked in some extra splines so I could better define a nose. See the 3 point patch at the arrow? Avoid those if you can, they often render ugly, (but use them if you have to).
56. Here I'm just using the deform tool to change the shape of the face some.
57. Extrude out the lips. Usually I do 3 extrusions, to get the fullness.
58. The corners of the mouth you don't want to gain any thickness so keep dragging those back or else the lips will look like a donut stuck onto the face. (Thick at A, cp's at B very near together)
59. Back to 1/2 the face. Messing with bias handles. See the button? Bias handles let you tweak the angle a spline comes in and out of a cp. Bias handles are tricky because if you are animating a cp that you've messed with the bias handles sometimes weird things happen, but still they are a very powerful tool.
60. Grab the inside ring of the lips, this is the point where the lips change to being the inside of the mouth.

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